Last Tango… in Paris

Ah, the obligatory last post. It’s a little behind schedule as I am posting from Saskatoon. It’s good to be home. Today I spent the day biking around my favourite areas under the clear Prairie sky and drinking delicious beverages at some of my favourite establishments. I’m trying not to be jetlagged but it’s not going so well.

So about the last leg of the journey: Cologne was a nice resting spot before insanity that was Paris. The cathedral blew my mind, needless to say. I went to the Chocolate Museum and was brainwashed into buying chocolate afterwards. But mostly I just hung out at Cafe Schmitz and did some good ol’ Bohemian brooding since I was still reeling from Czech adventuring and saying goodbye to a good friend.

Paris… oh, Paris. Four days was not even a fraction of the time I wish I had there. I walked a million miles and saw a million lovely things. I was also staying in a Parisian apartment rather than a hostel and met a bunch of totally rad people. So besides the usual touristy things, which everyone knows about, here are some other things worth mentioning:

1. Visiting the graves of some of my favourite artist/film people, most notably Jacques Demy. The vines growing on his tomb reminded me of a fairy tale, fitting considering his oeuvre.
2. Winding through the city streets until finally seeing the Sacre Coeur from the bottom of the hill. It was an indescribable feeling of elation. Possibly better than the fantastic view from the top.
3. Accidentally walking into a poetry reading at the historical bookstore Shakespeare & Company. I sat on a stool in a crowded space managing to pass as an NYU student and listened for awhile, and when it was over I explored the beautiful and cozy shop.
4. Eight hours in Versailles. The beauty and extravagance of the gardens and palace is simultaneously awe-inspiring and disgusting (for what I hope are obvious reasons).  Regardless, Marie Antoinette’s Estate… well, I do not even have words for it. It’s actually like being in a fairy tale. I suppose her wish to be away from the rigourous court life succeeded… as well as from the entire rest of the world… Despite all this, I immersed myself in the fairy tale for a good few hours.
5. Walking by the Hotel Raphael, site of the film shoot for Wes Anderson’s Hotel Chevalier!
6. Creme brulee at the diner from Amelie, for sheer novelty value.
7. Bastille Day was, coincidentally, my last day in Paris. I went to the parade near the Arc du Triomphe and saw crazy military plane manoeuvres.  Later, similar helicopter manoeuvres by the Louvre. That night, went with a couple girls from the apartment to the park near the Eiffel Tower for a half hour fireworks show (it was also the 120th anniversary of the tower). Never have I seen so many people in one place, and oh the celebration! Certainly ended my trip with a (literal) bang.

So now I am home. It’s weird. The next while (hopefully short while rather than long while) will be difficult as I deal with the fact that I will not be changing locations every few days and it sinks in that the usual grindstone has reappeared. On the other hand it will be really good to catch up with everyone I have missed so much, and maybe I can look at the “grindstone” in a new light.

This also marks the last entry in this blog… although I will probably keep the blog address for other purposes in the future. It’s been a good time writing (now I actually have something tangible I wouldn’t have written otherwise!), so thanks to all who bothered to read it!

- V

Kofola, Bones, and Mummies

Today is the end of the Eastern European Odyssey. Tonight, Isak and I will go our separate ways, he to Berlin, I to Cologne. Next Wednesday I will be flying home, a much-awaited event, so much so that at this point half of me wants to skip Paris and head to Saskatoon instead (coincidentally, Lonely Planet refers to Saskatoon as the “Paris of the Prairies”).

Highlights of our jaunt through the Czech Republic:

• Couch-surfing in Brno with our wonderful hosts Chris and Andrea, who took us to a bonafide pub, where I became instantly addicted to the Czech cola Kofola.
• The crypt in one of the Brno churches, containing various mummies including about 40 monks… really eerie.
• The indescribably scenic views of Cesky Krumlov, which despite the touristy vibe still feels straight out of the 13th century.
• Climbing down into the ossuary in the small town of Kutna Hora, chandeliers and coats of arms and pyramids and other intricate artworks… all made of human bones (possibly eerier than the aforementioned mummies).
• Prague! Feels like I have waited forever to visit this city, and yes, it is as wonderful as I have imagined.
• Teahouses. And loads of tea.

- V

Moravia, en route to Bohemia

Clearly self-indulgent picture of myself, indulging in Carnival Yerba Mate.

Isak is enjoying his Turkish tea. His shirt matches the decor.

After whirlwind days in Budapest and Vienna, we’ve finally made it to Brno, Moravia, a short stop before the last two destinations of the Eastern European Odyssey.

Vienna is a city of art and music, and other than the high tourist season, I loved everything about it. It seems that street art and urbanism has only recently really infiltrated the otherwise infamous classicism of the city, and the mix of “high” art with gritty cultural art is really inspiring. Just walking out of the train station, I got a really good vibe from the place, and that vibe never left. No shortage of compelling independent shops, among historic sites of the once-great empire.

Brno, to contrast, was quiet (read: abandoned) and rainy (read: utterly gloomy) today. It was almost a non-day until we unknowingly wandered into the Old Town Hall and saw a view of the old buildings from above (read: beautiful). We also found an underground tea emporium, designed for quiet conversation and relaxation, with teas from all over the world at insanely cheap prices. It was probably worth coming to Brno just for that.

- V

Budapest? Vienna!

Far away in Bratislava

Arrived in Budapest on Thursday, first dying in the scorching heat, then freezing in the windy rain:

Random road outisde the city on the highway... the way back from the Communist Statue Park.

Budapest has been a whirlwind of Big City and Epic History. Anything I write here will do it injustice! Today we went to some Turkish baths, both historic and… relaxing. Met a fellow Canadian from Victoria at the hostel and showed him some of the main sites; it was rad.

Off to Vienna on Tuesday… every new place we go increases how excited I am about this journey.

- V

Slovakian Sojourns

(I stole the above title from Lonely Planet…)

Here’s an update for you readers from Bratislava. We arrived here yesterday after a couple days exploring random small towns in North-Eastern Slovakia.

Getting from Krakow to Poprad was an exercise in patience and temporary language skills: we tooka bus to Zakopane, a minibus to the border, crossed by foot, then waited for a while for another bus to Poprad. Wandered around Poprad (beautiful Renaissance housing in one of the suburbs) and admired the amazing High Tatras from afar. Spent the next day in Spišské Podhradie (home of a 13th century ecclesiastical settlement and the magnificent Spiš Castle) and another town called Levoča. I admit I am exceedingly proud of our ability to navigate the rural bus system in a quiet countryside area with very little English.

Bratislava has a beautiful old town, but communism has taken its toll on the city (the entire Jewish Quarter was bulldozed when they made the New Bridge). Block buildings abound on the other side of the Danube. However, it’s still a good time, and we’ve treated ourselves to rich and tasty Slovak cuisine. Thursday we’re headed to Budapest, which I am ecstatic about.

Guess that’s it for now! I wanted to end this with a thoughtful quote, but I am ashamed to say I haven’t done much reading of late…

- V

Let the Eastern European Odyssey begin.

I’m in Krakow. It’s already more beautiful than I could have imagined.

Yesterday we explored the Jewish Quarter and the Old Town, and went to see Wawel Castle. Mostly I was just flabbergasted by everything. Especially St. Mary’s Cathedral, a Gothic church originating from the 13th century with the most colourful and ornate paintings and decorations I have ever seen inside. We also hung out at a sweet old bookstore with wooden tables and organic tea, and had dinner at an amazing vegetarian restaurant where the most expensive thing on the menu was $6 Cdn.

Today we went to Auschwitz, which was depressing but a good experience, and I think I had so mentally prepared for it that it wasn’t as nerve-wracking as I thought it would be. Now we’re off for a traditional Polish dinner courtesy of our WONDERFUL hostel staff.

We’re here for one more day, then taking a couple buses to Poprad, Slovakia. Not sure what internet access will be like, but I’ll try to post if I can.

- V

Not-so-trivial pursuits

This week I said a lot of goodbyes, and with those goodbyes comes a mellow demeanor, a slight sadness, and a satisfaction that I’ve met some amazing, wonderful people over the past few months. Today is my last day, and I’ve been running a plethora of errands with no time to contemplate the “end.” I want to post something but I don’t really feel like pouring my soul out (yet at the same time, I feel a written entry would be nothing without *some* soul). So, here are some pictures from the past few days, and a quasi-ode to Karlstad:

The beach - Marie-Pierre, Jamie and I headed here last week to enjoy the summer sun and cute Swedish babies playing in the sand.

The university is pretty gorgeous.

This is my favourite area of Karlstad, near the older buildings and by one of many bridges.

My neighbourhood, Norrstrand. Really quiet and spacious.

Antje, Anja, Lauren, and Keilin, on Swedish National Day. There was a parade and marching band downtown. They are some of the best people I know.

Marie-Pierre and Jamie at Cafe Royal, our official hangout for the past few months every Saturday afternoon. I'll miss those days.

Last Friday, Lars (aforementioned musician) took us roadtripping to his gig in Vänersborg. We met his parents and part of Isak's family. There was also a high school graduation happening, with a parade of students shouting joyously. It was a day to remember.

Lars got Jamie and I addicted to Trivial Pursuit (the Swedish version... which is obviously harder for us). Here we are with his friends Richard and Henrik circa 4:30 in the morning after an epic game.

This week I met some fantastic people (Lars and Richard) and it felt like I got really close to them really fast. It was weirdly heartbreaking because I had to say goodbye to them so quickly. Regardless, the time we spent together was easily the among the most memorable since I’ve been in Karlstad. Vegetarian dinners, Trivial Pursuit games until 6 in the morning, the Denmark-Sweden soccer game, infinite amounts of good music, a roadtrip in which I sat among musical gear in the back for 2 hours, and always good, intelligent, meaningful conversation save for select moments when hilarity took over. We spent an inordinate amount of time together over the past few days, greedily taking in what little time we had, and I loved every minute of it. To say I’ll miss them and hope I see them again would be grossly understating how important they’ve become to me.

Richard, Jamie, Lars and I. A bittersweet goodbye at Cafe Royal.

With that, the Karlstad saga comes to a close. I’ll try to update occasionally while en route for the Eastern European Odyssey. For now, I’m just indescribably grateful for everything I’ve seen and everyone I’ve met.

More photos of my recent escapades here.

- V

Lists

Eleven songs I am currently addicted to:

False Hearted Lover Blues (Levon Helm)
I Wish I Knew Natalie Portman (k-os, Nelly Furtado, and Saukrates)
I’ll Fight (Wilco)
You and I (Wilco and Feist)
Sugar Mountain (Neil Young)
Oh, Sister (Bob Dylan)
Got to Get You Into My Life (The Beatles)
The Birds on the Bridge (The Deep Dark Woods)
Wolfgang (Elliott Brood)
Empty Pocket Blues (The Incredible String Band)
My Good Gal (Old Crow Medicine Show)

Ten destinations for the Eastern European Odyssey, subject to change depending on competency, time, and money:

Krakow, Poland
Poprad, Slovakia (High Tatras and Spissky Hrad)
Bratislava, Slovakia
Budapest, Hungary
Vienna, Austria
Brno, Czech Republic
Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic
Prague, Czech Republic
Cologne, Germany
Paris, France

Nine things that make Karlstad great (other than the fantastic people):

Cafe August and its location by the harbour
bike paths and the ride downhill from campus
the availability of English literature at the public library
Cafe Royal, despite their ridiculous music selection
the botanical gardens and tulips
Mariebergskogen and the nature centre
the canal paths and old stone bridge
various recognizable characters I always see lurking around
Alsters Herrgard and other tiny tourist attractions

Eight books that have blown my mind this semester:

The Book of Laughter and Forgetting (Milan Kundera)
Solitudes Crowded With Loneliness (Bob Kaufman)
A Coney Island of the Mind (Lawrence Ferlinghetti)
Cat’s Cradle (Kurt Vonnegut)
Big Sur (Jack Kerouac)
The Stories of Eva Luna (Isabel Allende)
Poems 1956-1968 (Leonard Cohen)
The Last Picture Show (Larry McMurtry)

Seven films that have opened my eyes:

Tillsammans (Together)
Synecdoche, NY
Tarnation
Milk
Man on Wire
Frost/Nixon
Permanent Vacation

Six major cities I have visited so far:

Berlin (with Kash and Kaleigh)
London (with Jess)
Oslo (with Keilin)
Copenhagen (with Brian)
Gothenburg (with exchange students)
Stockholm (with exchange friends)

Five pieces of art that I was ecstatic to see:

The Scream (Edvard Munch)
The Absinthe Drinker (Edouard Manet)
L.H.O.O.Q. (Marcel Duchamp)
Monument to Dead Cows (Klint-Olle Jonsson)
Arnolfini and his Bride (Jan van Eyck)

Four foods I am really looking forward to in Canada:

sour-dough bread
London Fogs with hazelnut instead of vanilla
chocolate chips
real peanut butter

Three nature-related experiences I wouldn’t trade for anything:

cross-country skiing in the Swedish wilderness
canoeing on Sweden’s biggest lake
biking on the forest trails and near the farms by Karlstad

Two people I am deeply indebted to:

Jamie, for being my stronghold Canadian ally and always being there to spend time with
Isak, for answering *most* of the practical questions I ever had and also always being there to spend time with

One place I want to be:

I don’t know. I want to be a lot of places right now. Every time I go someplace new, I stretch myself a little thinner, but I also gain more people that are wonderfully important to me.

- V

A Neverending Story

This weekend was the Get A Gig festival in Karlstad, a three-stage festival of mostly local musicians at the lovely park Mariebergskogen. Jamie and I spent the majority of Friday people-watching and reviewing bands on scrap paper. It was fun, but a little underwhelming.

Saturday (yesterday) was much better, not just because of the music. Jamie and I met the musician from a show I had rather enjoyed way back in the day (Happy Duck in February) and he ended up talking with us for almost the whole rest of the evening. In fact, he turned out to be pretty great.  I wouldn’t hesitate to say I wish I had met him sooner… considering I’m leaving. In nine days.

I have nine days left in Karlstad until I leave for Eastern Europe! And then Saskatchewan!

Usually when I’m leaving somewhere for someplace else (provided it’s for an extended period of time), about one week prior I get extremely restless, nostalgic, hopeful, grateful, relieved, desperate, etc, but mostly just anxious. I also have a tendency to pack way ahead of time. In this case, I am starting tonight.

I’m not sure I can adjust to the insane amount of sunlight here. I don’t know how to command my body to sleep when the sun is giving me mental energy. It’s weird biking home at 3 am when it’s light out already, or being downtown at midnight and it’s not completely dark. It obviously takes adjusting!

- V

The Continuation of the Vättern Trek

As I mentioned, we spent the first night on the island of Visingö. Legend has it that the giant Vist threw a clump of grass into the lake to help his wife cross it. It’s the largest island in the area.

I should also mentioned that my cabin mates were Maya, from Serbia, and Annika, from Germany. It was the first time I had met either of them and I thought they were both extremely awesome. I wish I had met them earlier!

The island is rather serene, and for the majority of Saturday morning we examined yet another lovely church, and then absorbed copious amounts of sunlight and cool water by some castle ruins:

Visingsborg, 17th century residence of the Brahe family.

Afterwards, we took the ferry back to the town of Gränna, a town famous for its peppermint sticks, invented 150 years ago. It’s a little bit of a tourist town the same way Banff is, and most of the shops sell the same sorts of novelties. Most of the candy stores have windows where you can see the peppermint being made, which is kind of neat. I also found a couple antique stores and book shops, and ate WAY too much ice cream.

Peppermint!

Sidenote: small-town Sweden is just as into hot rods as small town America and Canada. Seriously. In BOTH towns we visited on Sunday there were long lines of well-kept antique cars driving down the main streets, often blasting fifties’ tunes!

From Gränna, we headed up to some more ruins, called Brahehus, which the count Per Brahe built for his wife. Another fantastic view of the lake and the countryside! From here, we drove to Hjo (pronounced “you”), possibly the sleepiest town yet. It used to be a health resort and the beaches are covered with bathhouses. Furthermore, the buildings of Hjo are largely old ornate wooden houses, so it’s a pretty gorgeous place. I have never seen a sunset that’s so pastel, like it was sketched with chalk.

The exchange group at Brahehus, from the 1640s, yet another residence for the Brahe family.

Bathhouses along the beach in Hjo.

The last day was mostly spent at Tiveden National Park, although we stopped for lunch at Karlsborg. It’s the substitute capital of Sweden with a 190 km long canal and a military fortress, the likes of which I have never seen before. Get this: it was started in 1820 and wasn’t finished for 90 years, by which time it was already obsolete. It was only used for about 15 years and now holds offices and training and a museum. I couldn’t help but think of what a waste of effort/money/labour it must have been. Ugh.

Here's something cool: a chandelier inside the church made of bayonets. No doubt that you'd die a bloody death if it fell on you.

Tiveden National Park was exactly what I was hoping for. Forests and lakes like Prince Albert National Park, and some of us canoed (the rest hiked) to a beach on the other side of the lake, where we chilled and enjoyed being in the middle of nowhere, ending with a campfire  and roasted marshmallows. I love national parks!

Some differences I noticed in Sweden’s national parks as opposed to Canada: no fishing is allowed at all, no camping overnight, no horseback riding, and a few other restrictions. I guess since Sweden already has the Right of Public Access, they’re free to go even further in their preservation efforts.

The water looked reddish - cool but creepy!

I tried to make sand art.

Okay, so Murphy’s Law dictates that you cannot go on a trip without something going wrong, and nothing had really gone wrong so far. So, of course, just as we are going to leave for Karlstad, it was discovered that the key for one of the vans was missing. We spent the next hour looking unsuccessfully for it until someone finally got hold of Teresia (who had left with her parents) and determined that it was in their car, which was now an hour away, which meant even more waiting was involved. It was more hilarious than frustrating though, so whatever!

By the time we got back to Karlstad everyone realized that it was the last time a lot of us would be seeing each other. I said goodbye to Nina and Jenny, and the imminence of leaving seemed to loom over everyone. I’m not really upset over leaving Karlstad, but of course I’ll be down about the various farewells to the various amazing people I have met.

The group.

- V